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Adobe, or cob, is basically a sun-dried mud. It has been used throughout the world, in many different time periods. Several buildings, hundreds of years old, still stand.

For the DIY builder, adobe has a lot going for it:
  • It is cheap, especially if you have a good deposit near your building site.
  • It is environmentally friendly. It comes form the earth, without the need for mining or processing, and will eventually return to the earth.
  • It has great thermal mass, so no need for insulation.
  • It is easy to use and work with.
  • It is strong and stable, especially if it is supported with buttresses
  • It is beautiful.

The downside is that it takes a lot more time to build with adobe than it does with many other building materials. It also requires some energy – you’ll be moving a lot of mud.

Testing the adobe
Before you start building, it’s a good idea to test your possible adobe deposits. This comes in two stages.

1)      Put some earth (take out rocks) in a jar, add water, and shake real well. The sand should settle to the bottom, then silt, then clay.

2)      Make some test bricks out of each sample. Too much sand will result in a crumbly, weak brick. Too much clay will shrink and crack as it dries.

T Bricks
The traditional way to make bricks is to set your forms on the ground, pour wet mud into them, and remove forms. When the bricks have dried out and cured, you then lay them as you would any other brick, using adobe as mortar.

We do it a little differently. We set our forms up on the wall itself and poured the bricks in place. The thing with pouring bricks in place is that, when you remove the forms, there is a space in between two bricks, where the forms used to be. We solved this by attaching two extra pieces of wood, 6” tall, to the middle underside of 2 opposing sides of the brick form. We call them T bricks, and we used for our form a wooden, box-like form, 12”x12”, 6” tall.

Set up the forms on the wall.
Pour mud into the forms.
After about 5-10 minutes of the mud setting up (when it’s firm, but not dry, to the touch), pull the forms upwards, off the brick.

If the mud is sticking to the form, push down on the corners of the brick as you’re pulling the form up.

With your fingers or a trowel, merge the edges of the brick into the one below it for a better join.

Lay one level of bricks. Then, on the next level, shift the brick forms over 6” so that the l part of the T covers the gap of the level below.

Mixing Adobe
Many people use straw in adobe. We don’t. Instead, we add about 10% (20% in top and bottom layers) cement. We find it makes stronger bricks and doesn’t erode as fast in rain, giving us more breathing space before having to do a plaster.

- Set up a canvas tarp on the ground (about 5’x5’).
- Have buckets of water and a bag of cement handy.
- Put 27 shovels of dirt and 3 shovels of cement (9:1) onto the tarp.

- Mix the two together while it is still dry.
- Pull the edges of the tarp towards the center, so that the dirt is left in a pile.
- Hollow out the center, and then almost fill it with water.

- Scoop dry dirt from the sides into the pool of water until the pool is covered over and looks like a volcano.

- Jump into the volcano (we started using old boots after the water started getting cold, and our feet were torn up by small rocks) and start stomping.

- Sprinkle water over the dirt and pull one side of the tarp towards the other side, making the dirt roll up together.

- Stamp again and repeat the process until there is no dry dirt left and the mud sticks together.

- You don’t want it too sloppy. Cookie dough consistency is what you’re aiming for.

Curing adobe

Curing s the process of keeping the material wet, or damp, for a period of time after it has set up. The slower it dries out completely, the stronger it will be.

For the first day, we would use a paintbrush to paint on water. This helps join the mud at the seams. If small cracks appear while the mud is still a little malleable, use your thumb to mush the mud together around the crack, and then paint it with water. We then spray on water for a couple of days, a few times a day.

Small cracks are no big deal. You can patch them with adobe or just plaster over them. Larger cracks that keep growing are a sign of a more serious, structural problem (like the wall is leaning).

Buttresses
Because adobe is heavy, buttresses are a great idea at the corners or any other point of stress. They offer support and counter any outward forces.


 
EXTERNAL RESOURCES
Build an Adobe Home
Earthship Biotecture
Auroville Earth Institution
Straw Bale Home
 
BOOK SUGGESTIONS
Art of Natural Building From New Society Publishers

Building Green: A Complete How-To Guide to Alternative Building Methods Earth Plaster * Straw Bale * Cordwood * Cob * Living Roofs By Clarke Snell, Tim Callahan

The Cob Builders Handbook: You Can Hand-Sculpt Your Own Home By Becky Bee

The Hand-Sculpted House: A Practical and Philosophical Guide to Building a Cob Cottage: The Real Goods Solar Living Book By Ianto Evans, Michael G. Smith, Linda Smiley

Ceramic Houses and Earth Architecture: How to Build Your Own By Nader Khalili

Adobe: Build It Yourself, Revised Edition  by Paul Grham McHenry Jr.

The Beauty of Straw Bale Homes By Athena Swentzell Steen, Bill Steen

Earthbag Building: The Tools, Tricks and Techniques (Natural Building Series) By Kaki Hunter, Donald Kiffmeye

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